Where's the New Jersey Wine?
More wine is being made in New Jersey, with new wineries coming on board every year and more vineyard acreage being planted. Better wine is being made, as accolades and positive press grows for many individual producers and the state overall, and as wineries grow their loyal followings.
So why, then, don’t consumers see more New Jersey wines on restaurant lists and on retail shop shelves? To use relationship parlance: It’s complicated.
Devon Perry, executive director of the Garden State Wine Growers Association (GSWGA), describes the goal for New Jersey winemakers this way: “The restaurants and retailers are the gatekeepers for future expansion. We want to develop a committed long-term relationship with them, but it takes time. They have to get to know us better and we have to let them know us better.”
With that in mind, here are some of the existing challenges to strengthening the connections.
There is just not enough to go around.
As demand for New Jersey wine has increased, getting more vineyards planted has not kept up. It does not happen overnight, either. Over 60 wineries now operate in New Jersey with more expected to come on board this year. Once planning has been completed and vines planted, however, it takes a minimum of three to five years to get appreciable grape growth. It takes time to get ramped up even though the desire and interest for more exists. The uncertainty of yields year to year because of weather conditions also is a factor that increases supply unpredictability.
Someone got to them first.
Because of the finite supply of wine made here, combined with the fact that the majority of NJ wine is sold direct to consumers through winery tasting rooms, you can blame it on the fervent customer base.
“The New Jersey wine consumer is not monolithic,” says Danna Shapiro, executive director of The Winemakers Co-op, a consortium of six wineries committed to driving the fine-wine movement in the Garden State. “When I first came on board, I was surprised at not only the level of consumer relationships with the different coop wineries, but how wine savvy they were; and the interest and knowledge continue to change and grow.” The wines are popular! The wineries want to have enough to sell to these visitors and loyal supporters before distributing it more widely, so it is a balancing act to anticipate demand at the tasting room and how much to distribute beyond that.
Preconceived notions.
Blame it, too, on consumers who are just not open to trying anything new. They “swipe left” automatically on any wine that doesn’t meet specific criteria yet may be more forgiving for something for which they perceive to be of higher quality. First impressions can be critical when someone is guarded or skeptical. If a consumer drinks California wine regularly and finds one not to their liking, they are less likely to hold it against the entire state.
If their first encounter with a New Jersey wine was not to their liking, even if it was a decade ago, they will say “Jersey wine isn’t good. I had a bad experience with one once.”
Dustin Tarpine, co-owner of Cedar Rose Vineyards in Millville and Vinetech Vineyard Management Solutions in Rosenhayn, believes that paradigm is changing.
“I am seeing some new light, new opportunities to get a bigger foothold.” He points to a younger customer base, more engaged in social media and possessing an appetite for new and different varieties and styles of wine. “Our customers are craving authenticity, and we and other New Jersey wineries are providing that,” he adds.
It’s not you.
This has nothing to do with the buyer—there is no New Jersey winery that is currently overstaffed. Few winemakers have the time or the hands to do more direct sales and marketing outreach to develop their brands to get deeper entrenchment on restaurant menus and store shelves.
Backing from Trenton is increasing but could be stronger, too. The Governor and First Lady have been vocal boosters for the industry, but Trenton devotes a lot less money and support than other states with a growing wine presence. That too may be changing. David Wolin, owner of Old York Cellars in Ringoes and current chairman of the GSWGA, is encouraged by the bipartisan support of state legislators in the winegrowing parts of the state and by talk of creating “wine caucuses” in the Senate and Assembly.
“It would help if the legislature would relax the restrictions on wineries collaborating,” says Wolin. “Most of what we can do is limited to our own properties and do not allow for joint ventures where we can combine efforts to promote one another and the industry overall.”
So, rather than having the benefit of broader partnerships or fewer beverage restrictions at the restaurant and retail level, the industry is left to grow by more organic efforts, like word of mouth and introductions from friends, that are leading to the connections.
Looking for something local.
There is still a disconnect between the thought and interest in what we eat and what we drink. People will diligently cook, order, and eat locally sourced food but not show the same level of interest in their beverages.
Wineries are largely concentrated in the southern and western parts of the state. Arguably, one will find more local wines in restaurants and stores closer to those concentrations. This is not just a Garden State thing; it is similar in other states with developing wine industries. There is more enthusiasm and easier tie-in with the food scene because of proximity. Also, a large percentage of state residents are one, two, three hours’ drive away from most of the state’s wineries. Out of sight, out of mind? It is at least easier for visitors and businesses with closer proximity to support the wineries.
Size matters.
The majority of the wine market here is dominated by two distributors (wholesalers)—Allied Beverage Group and Fedway Associates—representing hundreds of brands, with only a few in-state wineries in their portfolios. These companies have marketing and lobbying budgets, a lot of boots on the ground in sales and support, and other means to not just maintain shelf and wine list space, but constantly try to expand it. Think about your chances if you came up with a great cola and had to go up against Coke and Pepsi to get entrenchment. Now apply that in terms of the challenges the current New Jersey wine trade faces, still in its infancy.
Developing significant others.
All these factors rely on relationships. Future potential to develop LTRs (long-term relationships) across the spectrum of those relationships is looking up. The types and quality of wine being made in state are more and more appealing to consumers, and much of it is food friendly in style, important with chefs and makers who emphasize local sourcing. Growers are doing a better job of planting what does best in their respective regions. More vineyards and wineries are coming on board.
Most importantly, the gatekeeper restaurants and stores are actually being courted. Wineries are permitted 15 outlet licenses in the state where affiliates without liquor licenses can sell their wine specifically. It is a business decision whether to use any or all, but wineries have been developing these outside relationships for some time with restaurants and other vendors. There also are opportunities to distribute to existing liquor license holders.
“THE RESTAURANTS AND RETAILERS ARE THE GATEKEEPERS FOR FUTURE EXPANSION. WE WANT TO DEVELOP A COMMITTED LONG-TERM RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM, BUT IT TAKES TIME.”
Acclaimed New Jersey native and chef-owner David Burke, with nine establishments in the state alone, has demonstrated an interest in the state’s wines. “I think it’s time to recognize our winemakers’ efforts,” says Burke. “I support local when ‘local’ meets my standards, and there’s been a lot of progress and innovation on the Garden State’s wine front. There is so much untapped opportunity.”
In addition to kicking off a monthly wine dinner series at his Red Horse in Bernardsville in January featuring the new Meadowbrook Winery in Tewksbury, Burke does special “Dinner in the Dark” dinners at GOAT and Red Horse. At these dinners, which consistently sell out, blindfolded guests try New Jersey wines alongside those from better-known regions. The reaction of guests to both the tasting experience and quality of the local wines has been overwhelmingly positive.
Mark Callazzo, owner of the Tennessee Avenue Restaurant Group in Atlantic City, encompassing four properties, is also an unabashed fan of New Jersey wine. He rotates offerings from different local wineries in his by-the-glass programs, to expose customers, many who are wary.
“Wine drinkers can be set in their ways, and I am trying to break people of their reluctance.” When asked what the reactions are, Callazzo says, “Some ask me why I’d serve New Jersey, likely because of a tasting experience they had years ago, but I tell them ‘Just try it!’ and they are usually happily surprised.”
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Wine growers and makers have what seems to be the beginning of a beautiful friendship with restaurants and retail shops, a respected and credible segment in the state. Building brand awareness and loyalty will still take time under the current conditions, however. Perry says whenever she is in a wine shop or a restaurant, she asks about their selection of New Jersey wine, not just to support the industry in her leadership role but to help create awareness and show consumer interest. If you are a fan of New Jersey wine, consider doing the same: Ask for it at your favorite restaurants and wine shop.
